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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2019

    Some advice I've picked up from others and learned myself for post processing prints

    I'm not super experienced at all with post processing prints, but I've been testing continuously for the past several weeks. Maybe this post will help other fellow newbs. This has more to do with hiding layer lines and then painting.

    Save your failed prints for test sanding/painting. It's like a failsafe if you mess up and paint stripper can melt plastics. Speed Test Scrabble Word Finder Solitaire

    Plastic wood filler for overhangs or rough areas is super cheap, dries quickly, sandable, and is easy to work with. On flat but rough overhangs I sand down the fill until I see the printed layers underneath so that I know it is level. Bondo has been messier, more expensive, and harder to sand in my experience. I don't think plastic wood would give or pit for show purposes.

    I was going to learn airbrushing, but figured I'd go cheap with Krylon spray paints because it looks really nice. For a can it is about $5 at Lowes, on Amazon it is about $15 for the same thing. Lowes is cheaper, buy from them. And btw, Krylon's anvil gray with a chalky finish looks seeeeexy.

    To hide layer lines over the whole model, filler primers are exceptional but it takes 3+ coats to start getting good results so layers of XTC-3D beforehand has been good. Before any of this wash the model with sponge and dish soap because it is hard as hell to fix tiny bits of sanded material under the paint or epoxy in tight areas. Brush the layers of XTC thin with a sponge brush. Build up in 2-3 layers and sand, then filler primer, and if needed add more XTC because the filler primer will show what you missed. XTC is cured when your nail won't easily put a little dent in it. Sand level (or rough it up if it is level) before painting.
    Last edited by Pankh; 02-27-2019 at 07:21 PM.

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