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  1. #1

    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017

    Some newbie questions related to settings (more physical based)


    (I am no native English speaker...sorry, if something may sound wrong or weird...)

    This is my first posting to this forum...I am a complete newbie, when it comes to 3D-printing in general.
    I own a Creality CR-10, which is in its original state.

    I tried leveling the build plate...the glas isn't bows up in the middle (or down if turned upside down).
    The level screws on the right neeeds to be much more loosened as those on the left to get a halfway equal distance
    to the nozzel.

    While printing the calibration cube several time I now reached a state, where printing the cube is possible only when using a raft.
    The raft is THAT firmly attached to the cube, that it is impossible to remove it.
    Dimensions X and Y are spot on lengthwise...Z is to large due to the attached raft.

    Trying to print anything else with raft leads nearly always to this behaviour:
    The layer of the raft are printed ok, printing the following layers of the model leads to kinda
    "rubbing sound" ... like the Z movement is to little (which is not...I watched the Z-axis lead screw rotating...)

    Trying to print anything with brim or the pure model will put a good(?) first layer on the glas, and the next layer(s), which sticks to the glass
    will pull the first layer off the glass.

    I am printing black PLA (1.75mm) at 200 degree centigrade. The bed is at 50 degree centigrade.

    I am using the current version of Ideamaker as slicer on Linux.
    (Cura has problems displaying fonts on Mac and Linux, this will be fixed in the next major update of Cura. I like Ideamaker
    with the knowledge of a newbie
    If wanted I will post the config files here.

    What is the correct distance in mm of the nozzle to the bed ?

    Any help/config files for Ideamaker are very welcome!
    Cheers Meino

  2. #2

    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Dorset , UK
    Hi Meino,

    Your English is excellent, I'd even go so far as to say it's better than many native English first language speakers.

    Oddly enough I've also just downloaded Ideamaker and I use Linux too (Ubuntu 14.10LTS) I'm also looking for CR10 (CR-10 4s) settings to use with Ideamaker and I found this YouTube video which seems to be pretty handy to run through.

    With regards to the Nozzle to bed distance I've not measured it myself. Unfortunately my bed is not flat and I have a hill in the middle of the plate so I've been using brims on my models and applied a good coat of hairspray to give good adhesion. I've been wondering about getting some feeler gauges at some point (I'm an old time guy who still occasionally drives classic cars with mechanical distributor and points) to accurately set the height but given that my bed is not flat I've not bothered doing this yet. I've been doing the paper trick to try and set the height.

    I too would be interested to hear what people are using settings wise in their slicer software and also the nozzle height if anyone has measured it.

  3. #3

    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Hi qdos,

    (sorry for the delayed answer...was busy...printing... <smiley>

    Thank you so much for kind words, qdos!
    Never heard that positive response to what I try to express in English... <smiley>

    In the meanwhile I got some results and may be I have some solutions for some problems -- and may be others have
    with the same printer (hrrrrrmmmm <smiley> )

    1.) Build plate: For PLA a "crazy finding" of a friend of mine let brims and rafts become a piece of ancient time...some old school
    tool our grandprinters needs to use... (oh I like dramatic words in the context of the sheer nothing...hahahahaha!)... it comes:
    The glas creality delivers with the CR10 printers is prone to bulging in one or the other direction depending on the temperature
    of printer bed.
    From the internet I got the advice to use a mirror plate instead...since mirrors are optical instruments (very very simple "optical
    instruments" though) and need to be as plane as possible (and payable...).
    So I bought those, since they are cheap, have the correct size (300mm X 300mm) and the edges are rounded:
    LOTS mirror, pack of four sold by IKEA for under 10$.

    Everyone prints on the FRONT face (the side one would normally look at).
    My friend did the opposite (and no other word is more true than that one)
    He turned the mirror upside down...that is: The back side normally attached to a wall or similiar becomes the surface to print at.
    Then he heated up the printer bed to 50C and waits some time.
    Then he peels off the WHITE folio of the back. Under that folio there is grey surface firmly bound to the silver layer of the mirror.
    This surface does (for PLA) the trick:
    Level your bed (see next point), then wipe that surface with some Isopropanol/Ethanol (Don't use Aceton, since it will damage the surface).
    Print on that surface.
    The model sticks to it as it would be soldered on it directly.
    After print is ready, let the printer bed cool down...and >>>snipp!<<< off the model goes... TADA! <smiley>

    2) Leveling the bed: (I still dont know the exact distance but now I know how to get it... Again a trick of my friend:
    Heat up the printer bed to printing temperature. Heat the nozzle and carefully wipe off all filament goo which drips
    from the nozzle -- which is important. Otherwise one would measure "nozzle + some lost filament"...
    Instead of a piece of paper...use a sales check (I googled that word...I am unsure, whether it is correct...I mean
    those small and long pieces of paper with "butter...1.5EUR, milk...0.59EUR, Marmelade....1.29EUR" etc...on it).
    This is thermo paper and it is thinner than normal paper (and you dont have to pay for it...<smiley> ).
    First level the bed by moving the printer head to all four corners. ALWAYS put the sales check under the nozzle
    and move it while moving the printer head. Perhaps otherwise one will scratch the surface of the mirror if the
    nozzle is to close to it.
    The distance should be that close, that the paper gets gripped by the nozzle.
    The thermopaper will turn black if the nozzle grips is thermo paper...

    After that it is important to do the same in a square around the place which will be occupied by the print
    one will start later.

    3) Don't tighten the wheels! At least not every wheel...
    Many unboxing videos show, that after installing the Z-axis gantry one has to "go around her/his printer" and
    thighten everything, which seems to be loose...
    Most of the time: Correct...the Z-axis stepper of my printer was THAT loose that the lead screw was below the top holder (?word?).
    BUT: Dont tighten that wheel with the exentric nut, which is attached to the X-axis and runs along the Z-axis on
    the opposite side of the lead screw of Z-axis!! The wheel just need to touch the Z-frame slightly.
    It seems that the wheels on the left side dont line up horizontally with those on the right side.
    By thightening the wheel on the right side there is a pulling force from the that wheel to the opposite
    wheel on the left side. The vector of that force does not line up exactly with the horizontal surface of
    the X-axis frame (that on which the printer head is moving)...therefore the that frame becomes
    And: While one lead screw on the left side creates a force pulling up that X-axis frame a thighten
    wheel on the right would creates a rotating point of that movement until the force up break away
    the right side at some point creating a jump on that side.
    After I loosen that wheel I haven't any "elephant food" any more at my prints.

    4) Slicer: Ideamaker 3.03 beta. 'nough said <smiley> )
    5) CAD: Blender 2.79

    Hope I could give back some ideas to the community around this great printer!


  4. #4

    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Dorset , UK
    Quote Originally Posted by mcc View Post
    Instead of a piece of paper...use a sales check (I googled that word...I am unsure, whether it is correct...I mean
    those small and long pieces of paper with "butter...1.5EUR, milk...0.59EUR, Marmelade....1.29EUR" etc...on it).
    Not a bad guess, we call them a "Sales Receipt"

    I'll have to have a look at my wheels/bearings, after several weeks of printing it would be sensible to run around all the fixings and check them all. My machine seems to work well, other than the annoying hump in the middle of the glass but I've found that good generous application of hairspray has almost fixed this and I only get the occasional lifting of a print.

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