Q: Where can I find things to print?

A: Lots of places!

Q: I found something online I want to print, how to I get my printer to do it?

A: The files you get online are most often in the STL format. You printer works by following instructions in a Gcode file. You need to use a slicer program to process the STL into Gcode for your printer. In other words STL = blueprint. Gcode = Instruction. Feed the blueprint to the foreman (slicer) to produce instructions (Gcode). Then feed the Gcode to the worker (printer). Read more about slicers here The most popular slicers are Cura, Slic3r, and Simplify3D. The first two are free and the third is $150 USD. They each have their advantages and you will get good results with any of them.

Q: When I print my an object it appears in the center of the bed in my slicer software but it prints in the front left corner of the bed, why?

A: Make sure "Machine center is Zero" is NOT checked in your Cura printer settings. On the CR-10 the 0,0,0 coordinate is the front left corner of the bed.

Q: I'm sure my bed is level and the cat model printed out great but everything else I try to print the filament barely comes out, why?

A: Make sure that in your slicer settings your filament is set to 1.75mm and not 2.85mm or 3mm.

Q: I've got my bed level, what should I print now?

A: Print the cat found on the SD card under the "4.modle" folder. You can then compare your print of the cat to the ones other people have done. Since this file is already in Gcode you are running the exact same print instructions as other people have which makes it a great print to check that your printer is well set up. When you start slicing your own files your slicer settings will affect the quality of your print. Once you have the cat printed consider printing CR-10 Strain relief bracket for heatbed and CR-10 Filament Guide as these modifications are excellent and address two of the biggest issues with the original design.

Q: My extruder doesn't work. When I try to use it through the control box nothing happens.

A: The extruder motor will not turn when your nozzle is not at 100c or higher. This is a safety feature to protect the nozzle from having cold hard filament shoved into it.

Q: How do I adjust the Steps per MM on my extruder?

A: You can either adjust the flow setting in your slicer or add a M92 EXXX command to your starting G-code where XXX is the number of steps per mm.

Q: How do I reduce stringing, blobbing, lines not connecting, and other various issues with the quality of my prints?

A: Check out the links in this post as well as these other websites:





Q: I see many people recommend using Octoprint. I'd like to do that but I'm clueless as to how to do it. Help?

A: First get a Raspberry Pi. The Pi 3b is a great board to work with and it's a good idea to get a dedicated 2.4A power supply for it.

Kevin Rank put together a quick blog post on it, with a link to Tom's guide. It is actually pretty dang easy.

His recommendation, find a decent box to print on Thingiverse. Print it. Put the raspberry pi in it, and then modify things.

And this really isn't an "electronics" mod how many are. This is really setting up a little computer. It is far more computer oriented.

Instructions on setting up Octoprint

Q: I want to connect to my printer using its USB port (with my PC or a Raspberry Pi) but it's not working, why?

A: Make sure you have set the Baud rate to 115200.

Q: What layer height should I use?

A: In general the thinner the layer the better the print resolution which means your print will look better. It also means the print will take longer. For example a print using 0.2mm layers will take twice as long as a print using 0.4mm layers.

Other than quality and speed you also need to factor your nozzle diameter. For best accuracy you should keep your layer height between 1/4 and a bit over 1/2 of the nozzle diameter. In addition to faster print speed with thicker layers you also get comparatively stronger layer adhesion (layers less likely to split apart when under stress). This gives you a spectrum of choice from slow with fine details to fast with less details but stronger. In other words use thinner layers for pretty prints and thicker layers for functional prints.

Finally the CR-10 has a four start, 2mm pitch, 8mm lead screws which means that for a full step of the Z stepper motor the Z travel is 0.04mm. Although our printer can certainly hande 0.01mm Z steps it is most accurate on full steps. At full steps the stepper motor can hold/lock the Z axis better and there is less chance of a slight Z shift while the print moves around in the X and Y (which causes shaking). Because of that you should get maximum precision on the Z axis when your layer height is an even multiple of 0.04mm. Use these values with the stock nozzle for layer height for best print quality, regardless of your choice of thin or thick layers.

Q: I got my CR-10 in or after April 2017 and when I try to print the cat model it comes out bad?

A: If your print is shifted like in the picture below it is due to a bad Gcode file. Starting in April people started to receive the printer with cards that have a bad copy of this model. Download the model again from the file section of the Facebook group.

Q: It seems no matter which slicer I use my printer always seems to take a lot longer than the estimated time?

A: All slicer time estimates are way off. They estimate the print time by guessing on how long it will take your printer to execute each command in the Gcode file. In reality the printer takes longer and so the time estimates are never accurate. This is a common issue with no solution yet.